Cómo cultivar sus propios alimentos
Introduction
When we take the time to analyze the entire process of food production, we are confronted with the multitude and magnitude of steps, energy, and resources that are required to get our food in front of us – some unfortunately causing immense suffering. For most of us, this process starts with a farm, one that requires workers, and specialized planning to grow a seed into edible food, a process that is likely far away from us. There is a great deal of gratitude to be given to those who contribute to this process, and much of Food Empowerment Project (F.E.P.)’s work involves advocating for justice of farm workers that are involved in this work.
F.E.P. promotes growing your own food as a solution to the systemic lack of access to healthy foods and as a form of food sovereignty in a food system that was never created to benefit Black, Brown, and Indigenous people. Growing your own food also allows you to have a direct connection to the food you eat and can save you money.
For communities that lack access to fresh fruits and vegetables, we see growing your food as a solution that will empower individuals and communities to be more self-sufficient. Because food has systematically been weaponized as a tool of oppression and exploitation, this resource, as well as our broader organizational work, attempts to provide accessibility to varied incomes, housing situations, and marginalized communities. We believe that food is power and we support bringing power to the people.
We promote veganic agriculture, which is the agricultural process of utilizing growing techniques and inputs that are organic and do not include the exploitation of animals, as well as no animal products or by-products. (An example of veganic agriculture is the use of mushroom compost?Decomposed organic material that provides nutrient-rich soil amendment to plants. to provide nutrients for plants or regenerative agriculture?The concept of utilizing agricultural practices that are restorative to the soil and climate. This practice has become popularized due to the climate crisis and a general decrease in soil health, and the ability of plants to sequester greenhouse gas emissions and rebuild soil health. techniques instead of using animals for grazing.) Most fertilizers, agricultural techniques, and inputs used for both small- and large-scale growing involve and/or affect animals in very harmful and even fatal ways. In this resource you will learn more about how to garden veganically.
In order to begin, it is helpful to know a few things before getting started with your growing process. This includes knowing what climate you are in and therefore your growing seasons, where your optimal growing space is located, how to access seeds or starters?Plants that are several weeks old and have been nurtured through the earliest stages of growth to begin the growing process, and how to feed your plants with the adequate nutrients it needs to thrive.
Oftentimes, it takes gardeners many seasons to get the hang of growing food. When you first get started, you will quickly learn that some of your plants may live and thrive, while some of them will not. You will learn from trial and error what works for you and your garden! Don’t be too hard on yourself, growing food takes time and patience. When you find out what works for you and your garden, it is very rewarding. We hope this helps you get started!
**Please note that there are various terms used in this resource that may not be familiar to the general public, though they are common in gardening circles. Many of these terms we have highlighted so that you can click them and be directed to their definition in the glossary at the bottom!**
How to Grow Your Own Food
How to Grow Your Own Food
How to Grow Your Own Food
How to Grow Your Own Food
How to Grow Your Own Food
How to Grow Your Own Food
Introduction
When we take the time to analyze the entire process of food production, we are confronted with the multitude and magnitude of steps, energy, and resources that are required to get our food in front of us – some unfortunately causing immense suffering. For most of us, this process starts with a farm, one that requires workers, and specialized planning to grow a seed into edible food, a process that is likely far away from us. There is a great deal of gratitude to be given to those who contribute to this process, and much of Food Empowerment Project (F.E.P.)’s work involves advocating for justice of farm workers that are involved in this work (see here).
F.E.P. promotes growing your own food as a solution to the systemic lack of access to healthy foods and as a form of food sovereignty in a food system that was never created to benefit Black, Brown, and Indigenous people. Growing your own food also allows you to have a direct connection to the food you eat and can save you money.
For communities that lack access to fresh fruits and vegetables, we see growing your food as a solution that will empower individuals and communities to be more self-sufficient. Because food has systematically been weaponized as a tool of oppression and exploitation, this resource, as well as our broader organizational work, attempts to provide accessibility to varied incomes, housing situations, and marginalized communities. We believe that food is power and we support bringing power to the people.
We promote veganic agriculture, which is the agricultural process of utilizing growing techniques and inputs that are organic and do not include the exploitation of animals, as well as no animal products or by-products. (An example of veganic agriculture is the use of mushroom compost?Decomposed organic material that provides nutrient-rich soil amendment to plants. to provide nutrients for plants or regenerative agriculture?The concept of utilizing agricultural practices that are restorative to the soil and climate. This practice has become popularized due to the climate crisis and a general decrease in soil health, and the ability of plants to sequester greenhouse gas emissions and rebuild soil health. techniques instead of using animals for grazing.) Most fertilizers, agricultural techniques, and inputs used for both small- and large-scale growing involve and/or affect animals in very harmful and even fatal ways. In this resource you will learn more about how to garden veganically.
In order to begin, it is helpful to know a few things before getting started with your growing process. This includes knowing what climate you are in and therefore your growing seasons, where your optimal growing space is located, how to access seeds or starters?Plants that are several weeks old and have been nurtured through the earliest stages of growth to begin the growing process, and how to feed your plants with the adequate nutrients it needs to thrive. Oftentimes, it takes gardeners many seasons to get the hang of growing food. When you first get started, you will quickly learn that some of your plants may live and thrive, while some of them will not. You will learn from trial and error what works for you and your garden! Don’t be too hard on yourself, growing food takes time and patience. When you find out what works for you and your garden, it is very rewarding. We hope this helps you get started! **Please note that there are various terms used in this resource that may not be familiar to the general public, though they are common in gardening circles. Many of these terms we have highlighted so that you can click them and be directed to their definition in the glossary at the bottom!**
Your climate and growing season:
Do you live in a warm, cool, or moderate climate?
If you live in a warmer climate, it is likely that you can grow warm-weather crops for a long period of time and cool weather crops for a short period of time. This means that you have the option of succession planting?Planting the same crop multiple times over periods of time such as days or weeks in order to harvest it continously throughout its growing season. with your warm-weather crops. This also means that you will need to pay extra attention to the maturation time of your chosen cool-weather crops as well as the last frost date to know the window of time you have for your crops to grow and thrive.
If you live in a cooler climate, it is likely that you can grow cool-weather crops for a long period of time, and warm-weather crops for a short period of time. This means that you have the option of succession planting?Planting the same crop multiple times over periods of time such as days or weeks in order to harvest it continously throughout its growing season. with your cool weather crops. This also means that you will need to pay extra attention to the maturation time of your chosen warm-weather crops as well as the first frost date to know the window of time you have for your crops to grow and thrive.
If you live in a moderate climate, it is likely that you can grow both cool- and warm-weather crops through their average growth cycles, but you will need to pay attention to the maturation time of plants and your frost dates to know the window of time you have to grow each crop in its season.
Most crops grown in a standard home garden are considered annual plants. Annual plants are plants that complete their life cycle within one growing season, such as tomatoes and peppers. This is to be differentiated from perennial plants (commonly referred to as perennials), which are plants that live more than two years, such as the majority of herbs, and if cared for properly, strawberries. You can utilize the internet to find out if a plant you’re interested in growing is a perennial or annual.
The Plant Hardiness Zone Map?A map based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature, displayed as 10-degree F zones and 5-degree F half zones. It is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate.
When it comes to growing perennials in your garden, it is helpful to know your plant hardiness zone. The Plant Hardiness Zone Map?A map based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature, displayed as 10-degree F zones and 5-degree F half zones. It is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate. (PHZM) is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate.[1] It can be found online and is commonly on the back of seed packets. The PHZM is important for growers to take into account when preparing to grow food, because not all plants can grow and/or will thrive in every type of climate. Understanding your plant hardiness zone will allow you to pick plants for your garden that will likely survive your local climate.
Although it may look hard to read, you simply just need to find your location on the map and use the color of your location to read the zone you are located in on the key. If you have trouble reading the map, you can search the internet: «What Plant Hardiness Zone?A map based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature, displayed as 10-degree F zones and 5-degree F half zones. It is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate. is (insert your Zip code).»
Unless the plant is a cool-season crop?Crops that grow best in cooler seasons and can withstand frost. in order to know when it is best to start planting you should find out the average frost-free date in your region. This is the date you will no longer get frost, because most warm-season crops?Crops that grow best in warmer seasons and generally cannot withstand frost. are not able to withstand frost, you will need to start the process after the date, with acknowledgement of how long the plant needs to mature in order for each plant to complete its cycle before the fall frost.
Knowing your plant hardiness zone?A map based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature, displayed as 10-degree F zones and 5-degree F half zones. It is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate. will help you find out the first and last frost date of your region. You can search the internet «what is the first frost date of plant hardiness zone?A map based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature, displayed as 10-degree F zones and 5-degree F half zones. It is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate. (x)» and «what is the last frost date of plant hardiness zone?A map based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature, displayed as 10-degree F zones and 5-degree F half zones. It is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate. (x).»
It is important to note that with global rising temperatures, the map has changed for the first time in a decade in 2023, and is predicted to continue to change, so be sure to research the most updated version for your region.
Generally, warm-season crops?Crops that grow best in warmer seasons and generally cannot withstand frost. planted in spring will grow until the first fall frost, and cool-season crops?Crops that grow best in cooler seasons and can withstand frost. planted in late summer for fall will continue to grow through moderate to freezing temperatures.[2]
Perennials are dormant?A plant’s period of inactivity where it conserves its energy for the next growing season as a survival strategy during harsh conditions and climates unsuitable for its growth (such as winter or dry seasons). A seed is also considered dormant until it has the proper growing conditions to sprout. in their off season, so while some warm-season crops?Crops that grow best in warmer seasons and generally cannot withstand frost., for example, are still alive in the winter, they will not produce food until it is warm again.[2]
How much space you have to grow food, and where that space is:
Every plant is different and requires different amounts of space and sun exposure.
Container Gardening
If you don’t have access to a yard to grow food, container gardening is a great option for you. Even for those that do have a yard, container gardening allows for portable and controlled growing that may be optimal for some. Container gardening involves growing plants exclusively in containers rather than planting in the ground. You can have a container garden inside or outside. These containers will still need to be exposed to ample sunlight and be watered consistently, as plants growing in containers will need to be watered more than plants grown in the ground. If there is not a lot of sunlight in your home, you can buy a grow light. Different plants will require different amounts of lumens (light output) in order to mature, so be sure to research what range the plant you are growing requires beforehand.
Yard
There is the option to sow?To put seeds in or on the ground so that they will grow into plants. plants directly into the ground or use raised beds.
Plant beds or a raised bed garden can be bought or constructed and are advantageous for those who don’t have the best soil conditions or who live in areas where the soil contains contaminants?Elements or chemicals present at levels that pose human and non-human animals health risk, as well as negatively impacts the soil’s health. Usually caused by industrial activity, agricultural chemicals, and improper disposal of waste.. A basic plant bed consists of four wooden planks that are connected and form a rectangular or square shape and separate the areas full of wanted plants from grass and/or other unwanted plants (also known as “weeds”). The following resource goes more in-depth on how to create a raised bed garden: Tips for Preparing a Raised Bed Garden.
When choosing the most ideal location in your yard for your garden, consider what crops you want to grow. You are able to mix warm?Crops that grow best in warmer seasons and generally cannot withstand frost. and cool-season crops?Crops that grow best in cooler seasons and can withstand frost. as long as the warm-weather crops are big enough to provide ample shade to the cooler weather crops. When companion planting?Intentionally planting various types of plants close to each other due to their varied benefits which in turn enhances their growth or protects them from insects or animals eating them. a mix of warm?Crops that grow best in warmer seasons and generally cannot withstand frost. and cool-season crops?Crops that grow best in cooler seasons and can withstand frost., south facing gardens are most optimal. The best way to orient garden rows in the Northern Hemisphere is from north to south, with warm-weather crops?Crops that grow best in warmer seasons and generally cannot withstand frost. in the front receiving the most sun and short-growing cool-weather crops?Crops that grow best in cooler seasons and can withstand frost. such as lettuce, radishes, beets, and onions, in the southernmost part of the garden.
Apart from companion planting?Intentionally planting various types of plants close to each other due to their varied benefits which in turn enhances their growth or protects them from insects or animals eating them., south-facing gardens are most optimal for warm-season crops?Crops that grow best in warmer seasons and generally cannot withstand frost., such as, but not limited to, watermelon, squash, okra, and tomato, because they experience such little shade.
North-facing gardens experience more shade in the daytime and evening sunshine; that makes them best for plants that do well with only three to four hours of sunlight, such as (but not limited to) lettuce, mint, and oregano.
East-facing gardens experience the most sunshine in the morning hours, with evening shade. Plants that will benefit from this include, but are not limited to, carrots, peppers, and leafy greens.
West-facing gardens experience sunshine in the afternoon and evening, so plants that can tolerate hot afternoons work best here, such as, but not limited to, tomatoes, squash, and pepper.
Deciding the food you will grow, and accessing their seeds or starters:
Once you know your Plant Hardiness Zone?A map based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature, displayed as 10-degree F zones and 5-degree F half zones. It is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate. and the location/s you will be planting, you are able to decide what food you can grow! This is one of the most exciting parts of planning. Will you grow tomatoes and make pasta sauce? Or, could you grow cucumbers and pickle them? The possibilities are endless.
You have two options for growing food. You can start from seed or access starters?Plants that are several weeks old and have been nurtured through the earliest stages of growth. Starters?Plants that are several weeks old and have been nurtured through the earliest stages of growth are plants that are several weeks old and have been nurtured through the earliest stages of growth.
These can be found at farmers’ markets, community gardens, plant nurseries, garden centers, online, many grocery stores, store-bought produce, and many more places.
Starting seeds:
There are some seeds that are best sown?To put seeds in or on the ground so that they will grow into plants. directly into the ground (or container of soil), and there are some that are best started more carefully as seedlings?A young plant. to be transplanted?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. into the ground or a larger container of soil. This is because smaller seeds are at a higher risk of not germinating or being protected from weather or animals in their early stages. Direct sowing?To put seeds in or on the ground so that they will grow into plants. is usually always appropriate for large seeds that have a hard, tough coating; however, small-seeds crops that do not take long to reach maturity may do better being sown?To put seeds in or on the ground so that they will grow into plants. directly into its permanent home, such as lettuce.
To establish seedlings?A young plant., you can utilize the paper towel method mentioned above, pellets, or use a seed-starting tray, which you can typically find used at nurseries, garden centers, or possibly community gardens and other gardening-related places. Note that you can also make your own seedling?A young plant. container from cardboard, newspaper, toilet paper rolls, and a multitude of other creative ways you can easily find online. Also note that seeds will germinate?When conditions become favorable for a dormant seed, spore, or bulb to begin to sprout. in a multitude of growing mediums in addition to soil.
Generally seeds should be sowed?To put seeds in or on the ground so that they will grow into plants. at a depth two to three times the seed’s width. Then cover the seed with the soil/grow medium (though an exception includes lettuces, which do not need to be covered at all), and water thoroughly.
Before transplanted?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. a seedling?A young plant. to its final destination, make sure that it is at least 2-3 inches tall and after its two “true leaves” (the second set of leaves to grow) have come out. Its final destination should be directly into the ground or a container with soil and drainage holes. Make sure that the hole made to place the transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. is big enough to fit the entirety of its roots. When transplanting?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions., be gentle with the plant, especially its roots, and make sure that it is sturdy in its new home. You may need to add additional soil and pat it down along the base of the plant. Water generously.
We’ll get you started with a list of common crops and their maturation time?How many days a plant will need to grow before being able to produce vegetables, fruit, or flowers for harvest.. If you are using seed packets, it will likely tell you its specific maturation time?How many days a plant will need to grow before being able to produce vegetables, fruit, or flowers for harvest.. Please note that the maturation time?How many days a plant will need to grow before being able to produce vegetables, fruit, or flowers for harvest. is a range because of the different varieties of each crop as well as the various weather conditions that may cause a crop to grow faster or slower. If you are using a starter?Plants that are several weeks old and have been nurtured through the earliest stages of growth of a plant instead of a seed, it is safe to assume they are at least 30 days old, thus you can subtract 30 from its respective maturation time?How many days a plant will need to grow before being able to produce vegetables, fruit, or flowers for harvest.. Once you know your plant hardiness zone?A map based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature, displayed as 10-degree F zones and 5-degree F half zones. It is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate. and the maturation time?How many days a plant will need to grow before being able to produce vegetables, fruit, or flowers for harvest. for the plants you want to grow, you will know the range of time you have to grow your crop to maturation with its respective frost dates in mind.
| Crop | Maturation Time |
|---|---|
| Bell Pepers | 60–90 days |
| Broccoli | 50–90 days |
| Carrots | 70–80 days |
| Corn | 60–100 days |
| Cucumber | 50–70 days |
| Beans | 50–65 days |
| Beets | 50–70 days |
| Eggplant | 65–80 days |
| Garlic | 270–310 days |
| Jalapeño peppers | 60–80 days |
| Crop | Maturation Time |
|---|---|
| Kale | 55–75 days |
| Lentils | 80–100 days |
| Lettuce | 30–70 days |
| Onion | 90–100 days |
| Peas | 60–70 days |
| Radish | 25–45 days |
| Spinach | 45–50 days |
| Squash | 60–110 days |
| Tomatillos | 70–90 days |
| Tomatoes | 45–90 days |
Nutrients 101
All plants need three key nutrients to survive and thrive. This includes nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, commonly referred to as NPK, or “the big three.” Though other important nutrients are calcium, magnesium, and sulfur; however, the optimal nutrient composition of the soil will vary depending on what you plant. You have the option to test your soil to see what amendments may be best added to your soil for your plants’ specific needs, though this is not required. One of the most popular and inexpensive kits is the Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Soil Test Kit. Your plants are the best indicator of the levels of nutrients in your soil. Yellowing starting in older leaves and progressing throughout the plant is an indication of a nitrogen deficiency. Older leaves turning a dark green or reddish-purple coloration is an indication of phosphorus deficiency.[3] Be sure to look out for abnormalities in your plant to identify what specific nutrients might need to be amended into the soil to support your plant’s health.
Regardless, almost all soil can benefit from the use of compost?Decomposed organic material that provides nutrient-rich soil amendment to plants.. Veganism is so beneficial to the cycle of growing food because it can truly be a closed-loop process. All that is vegan (including processed vegan foods) and composed of plants (no plastics, only plant-based materials) is compostable. There may be composting services available locally to you that will provide you with a container and facilitate pick up and return of a container for a fee. There are also some cities and private entities that offer free compost?Decomposed organic material that provides nutrient-rich soil amendment to plants. services or free compost?Decomposed organic material that provides nutrient-rich soil amendment to plants. drop-off; you will need to research specifically for your area. You also have the option to compost?Decomposed organic material that provides nutrient-rich soil amendment to plants. yourself! The following resource goes more in-depth on how to compost?Decomposed organic material that provides nutrient-rich soil amendment to plants. at home: How to create plant-based compost at home.
There are plenty of ways you can acquire specific or a variety of nutrients from scraps at home without a compost?Decomposed organic material that provides nutrient-rich soil amendment to plants. system. Some examples of this include soaking banana peels in water and using that water to provide nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and magnesium to soil; adding coffee grounds directly to soil for nitrogen; or orange peel infused water for calcium.
Growing food from kitchen scraps:
Your ability to grow harvested seeds from store-bought produce will depend on a variety of factors, including whether the produce was picked pre-maturely, if it is hybrid?The offspring of two different varieties of plants. Hybrid plants have greater genetic diversity than their plants and entirely new crops can be created through hybridization. or heirloom?The offspring of two identical varieties of a plant to create a plant identical to the parent plant. Heirloom plants are made possible from generations of strategic seed saving., if the seeds are fertile, and sometimes if the produce is organic or not. People often have great luck with the seeds from pumpkins, peppers, tomatoes, beans, and more. So, while it may be difficult to determine which produce will have viable seeds to grow your desired plant it is certainly possible.
A seed-starting trick many people use to find out if their seeds are capable of germinating or to simply speed up the growing process is the paper towel method. To see if a seed from produce is viable, remove the seeds from the produce and clean them off gently and thoroughly. Then, damp a paper towel with water and place the seeds inside. Next, fold the paper towel a few times over the seeds so that the seeds are inside and it fits in a small plastic bag. Seal the bag completely closed, then place it in a warm and dark location. Check your seeds daily to make sure they are still moist, if not, be sure to spray water on the paper towel to keep it moist. It typically takes 3 days to a week for the seeds to fully sprout, and a few more days for leaves to emerge. For larger seeds, it may range from 2 weeks to 3 months for it to sprout, but for the average, smaller seeds, if they do not germinate?When conditions become favorable for a dormant seed, spore, or bulb to begin to sprout. within 2 weeks, it is safe to say they will not at all. Once your seeds germinate?When conditions become favorable for a dormant seed, spore, or bulb to begin to sprout., carefully put them in soil. Again, this method can be used for any seed. The paper towel method creates prime conditions for seeds to germinate?When conditions become favorable for a dormant seed, spore, or bulb to begin to sprout. because of controlled moisture and heat conditions within the bag.
Apart from using the seeds from your produce to grow more food, there are certain produce items you can use as a starter!?Plants that are several weeks old and have been nurtured through the earliest stages of growth
For both methods, it is often best to use organic produce, as they will be less affected by chemical inputs such as growth inhibitors?Chemicals that promote dormancy in crops with the goal of preventing them from sprouting. that are often found in non-organic produce. F.E.P. recommends purchasing organically and locally when possible not only for this reason but also to support produce that does not put farm workers in conditions of being negatively impacted by the use of pesticides and other harmful chemicals in the growing process.
This method will only produce leaf growth to be used as greens, and will not grow into a full beet.
Cut off the top 1½ inches from a beetroot (the beet root refers to the large circular bulb of the beet) and place it cut-side down in a dish with enough water to keep the sliced end soaked. It only takes a few days for leaves to emerge, and a few weeks for them to grow to mature sizes.
Beet greens have more nutrients, including vitamins and minerals, than the beet root itself! They are tasty raw or cooked, most people saute them with oil and seasonings!
Make sure there is about 2-3 inches of stem. Place the stems upright in a container of water. When the new roots begin to sprout, transfer the herbs into a pot of soil in your window sill or directly into the ground. Keep in mind that mint has a strong root system that will rapidly spread if not contained to a pot.
Mmm. The smell of fresh basil, mint, and cilantro. Herbs are always an incredible topping to add for extra flavor as well as their varied benefits! You can pluck some basil to add more flavor to pasta, or use your mint to make some soothing tea, or use your cilantro to make a simple salsa recipe! The best part is that you can create a never ending supply of these herbs.
Cut off the base of the celery and place it in a container so that it is submerged in a few inches of water. Keep the bowl in direct sunlight, and after about a week, the leaves will begin to thicken and grow along the base. When this happens, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. the celery in potting soil or directly into the ground.
Celery is a nutrient-rich food that tastes amazing with peanut butter, hummus, or vegan ranch. Why not grow more celery from your scraps instead of needing to buy it later?
You need a couple of centimeters of the base of the fennel to get it to regrow. Place this base in a container of water and leave it in direct sunlight. When the roots grow strong and you notice new green shoots coming up from the center of the base, you can transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. it into a pot of soil in your windowsill or directly into the ground.[4]
Whether tossed into a salad, roasted, or added to your favorite dish, fennel is a versatile ingredient that provides an incredible amount of health benefits for our bodies! Don’t throw out the scraps of your next batch. Start growing it!
Plant one clove of garlic with the roots facing down into a pot of soil or directly into the ground. Once new shoots have established, cut the shoots back and your plant will produce a bulb. You can take part of this new bulb and plant again.[4]
Garlic is not just a tasty flavor addition to any meal, many people also use garlic as a powerful plant medicine! Try to save a clove and grow it next time you can; you never know when you will wish you had some!
Plant a spare piece of ginger root in potting soil, making sure that the healthiest-looking growth buds?A small, protruding growth on a plant that has the potential to develop into a leaf, flower, or new shoot. are facing upwards. It will do well in your windowsill or planted directly into the ground. New shoots and roots will occur in about a week. You can then harvest it and use it again. Be sure to save a rhizome?An underground plant stem that produces shoots above and roots below. if you want to replant it.
Ginger has a strong flavor that people everywhere love. Whether in tea, candied, or added to soups and curry, it’s a versatile ingredient that, like garlic, is often used as a form of plant medicine! With its strong flavor, a little goes a long way, so save some and plant it for later use!
Put the white base with the roots intact in a container of water and place in direct sunlight. You can just cut off what you need and allow it to grow as long as you like, it will continue to grow in water.[4]
Green onions are the easiest food to grow in water! No need to transplant them into soil. They grow so fast that you will surely have an abundance of it with little effort.
Place the bulb of lemongrass (the light-colored, often white, bottom part of the lemongrass) in a container with enough water to cover it and leave it in the sunlight. After about a week, new growth will form; when this happens, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. into a pot of soil or directly into the ground.[4]
Don’t have a lemon? Hopefully you’ve got lemongrass! You will if you use this technique. Similar to garlic and ginger, lemongrass is often used as plant medicine, and is commonly used in tea because of its relaxing properties.
Place the base of the lettuce/bok choy/cabbage (must be at least 1 inch) in a bowl with just a bit of water in the bottom. Keep the bowl in direct sunlight. After 3 or 4 days, roots will begin to appear along with new leaves. When this happens, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. it into a pot of soil in your windowsill or directly into the ground.[4]
Hey! Don’t forget your greens! These plants grow so fast in water and then when transplanted, you can save yourself lots of time and money by utilizing this technique!
Microgreens are the sprouts that are picked after the first two leaves develop. You can use raw sunflower seeds, dried peas, and chia seeds from the store to grow microgreens. (You can also use broccoli, arugula, cilantro, and kale seeds for microgreens. See below for seed-saving techniques to harvest some of these seeds in your home garden! You can also use broccoli, arugula, cilantro, and kale seeds for microgreens.)
To grow your microgreens, find a shallow container with drainage holes at the bottom that is large enough to hold your desired amount of microgreens; this can be a re-used fruit container, seed tray, or any other medium with drainage. Note that if need be, you can create drainage holes in any container made up of plastic or another easily manipulated material by burning holes or poking holes in it with something sharp.
Fill the container with soil. Because they are microgreens, they only need 2 inches of soil. Scatter a generous amount of seeds on top of the soil and cover with a light layer of additional soil. Water every day and the microgreens will be ready to harvest once they are 1½ to 3 inches tall. They are best consumed fresh and raw.
Did you know that microgreens are more nutrient dense than the mature version of the greens? They are great as a topping to any dish of your choosing!
Potatoes will need to sprout, creating “eyes,” in order to grow more potatoes.
Though potatoes left alone long enough tend to sprout on their own, you can encourage sprouting by placing an onion near your potatoes (the ethylene gas naturally emitted by the onion causes them to sprout), or exposing them to light, heat, or humidity.
Once the potato/es have eyes on them, cut the potato into smaller pieces with at least one eye on each piece. Plant the potato segments cut-side down (eyes up) 6-8 inches deep in a container of deep soil or directly into the ground and cover. Each segment should be 8 inches to a foot within the same row, and 2 to 3 feet in between rows. It will take a few weeks before the potato plant begins to grow. The potatoes are ready to harvest once their leaves are dried and dead.
What is so amazing about growing potatoes is that one potato plant can produce several pounds of potatoes! Don’t miss out on the big return you can get from growing more potatoes!
Place a sweet potato into a container that allows its bottom half to be submerged in water such as a pasta sauce jar. If you need support to hold up the sweet potato in your jar, using a few toothpicks poked inside of the potato and balancing on the rim of the container of water will work well. Roots will appear in a few days and sprouts will be seen on top of the potato. Once those sprouts (called “sweet potato slips”) reach about 6 inches in length, twist them off at the base and place them in a container of water. When the roots from these slips reach a couple of centimeters in length, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. into a container of soil or directly into the ground. Each slip should be 8 inches to a foot within the same row, and 2 to 3 feet in between rows. The sweet potatoes are ready to harvest once their vines turn yellow.
There’s sweet potato fries, sweet potato pie, casserole, yams, and more! The possibilities truly seem endless. That is why, just like you can grow an abundance of potatoes from one eye, you should grow an abundance of sweet potatoes from even just one slip and enjoy all that sweet potatoes have to offer!
When growing food indoors on window sills, be sure to replace the water every 1-2 days, and check consistently if there is enough water in the container your plant is in, as the sun tends to evaporate water fast.
This method will only produce leaf growth to be used as greens, and will not grow into a full beet.
Cut off the top 1½ inches from a beetroot (the beet root refers to the large circular bulb of the beet) and place it cut-side down in a dish with enough water to keep the sliced end soaked. It only takes a few days for leaves to emerge, and a few weeks for them to grow to mature sizes.
Beet greens have more nutrients, including vitamins and minerals, than the beet root itself! They are tasty raw or cooked, most people saute them with oil and seasonings!
Make sure there is about 2-3 inches of stem. Place the stems upright in a container of water. When the new roots begin to sprout, transfer the herbs into a pot of soil in your window sill or directly into the ground. Keep in mind that mint has a strong root system that will rapidly spread if not contained to a pot.
Mmm. The smell of fresh basil, mint, and cilantro. Herbs are always an incredible topping to add for extra flavor as well as their varied benefits! You can pluck some basil to add more flavor to pasta, or use your mint to make some soothing tea, or use your cilantro to make a simple salsa recipe! The best part is that you can create a never ending supply of these herbs.
Cut off the base of the celery and place it in a container so that it is submerged in a few inches of water. Keep the bowl in direct sunlight, and after about a week, the leaves will begin to thicken and grow along the base. When this happens, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. the celery in potting soil or directly into the ground.
Celery is a nutrient-rich food that tastes amazing with peanut butter, hummus, or vegan ranch. Why not grow more celery from your scraps instead of needing to buy it later?
You need a couple of centimeters of the base of the fennel to get it to regrow. Place this base in a container of water and leave it in direct sunlight. When the roots grow strong and you notice new green shoots coming up from the center of the base, you can transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. it into a pot of soil in your windowsill or directly into the ground.[4]
Whether tossed into a salad, roasted, or added to your favorite dish, fennel is a versatile ingredient that provides an incredible amount of health benefits for our bodies! Don’t throw out the scraps of your next batch. Start growing it!
Plant one clove of garlic with the roots facing down into a pot of soil or directly into the ground. Once new shoots have established, cut the shoots back and your plant will produce a bulb. You can take part of this new bulb and plant again.[4]
Garlic is not just a tasty flavor addition to any meal, many people also use garlic as a powerful plant medicine! Try to save a clove and grow it next time you can; you never know when you will wish you had some!
Plant a spare piece of ginger root in potting soil, making sure that the healthiest-looking growth buds?A small, protruding growth on a plant that has the potential to develop into a leaf, flower, or new shoot. are facing upwards. It will do well in your windowsill or planted directly into the ground. New shoots and roots will occur in about a week. You can then harvest it and use it again. Be sure to save a rhizome?An underground plant stem that produces shoots above and roots below. if you want to replant it.
Ginger has a strong flavor that people everywhere love. Whether in tea, candied, or added to soups and curry, it’s a versatile ingredient that, like garlic, is often used as a form of plant medicine! With its strong flavor, a little goes a long way, so save some and plant it for later use!
Put the white base with the roots intact in a container of water and place in direct sunlight. You can just cut off what you need and allow it to grow as long as you like, it will continue to grow in water.[4]
Green onions are the easiest food to grow in water! No need to transplant them into soil. They grow so fast that you will surely have an abundance of it with little effort.
Place the bulb of lemongrass (the light-colored, often white, bottom part of the lemongrass) in a container with enough water to cover it and leave it in the sunlight. After about a week, new growth will form; when this happens, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. into a pot of soil or directly into the ground.[4]
Don’t have a lemon? Hopefully you’ve got lemongrass! You will if you use this technique. Similar to garlic and ginger, lemongrass is often used as plant medicine, and is commonly used in tea because of its relaxing properties.
Place the base of the lettuce/bok choy/cabbage (must be at least 1 inch) in a bowl with just a bit of water in the bottom. Keep the bowl in direct sunlight. After 3 or 4 days, roots will begin to appear along with new leaves. When this happens, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. it into a pot of soil in your windowsill or directly into the ground.[4]
Hey! Don’t forget your greens! These plants grow so fast in water and then when transplanted, you can save yourself lots of time and money by utilizing this technique!
Microgreens are the sprouts that are picked after the first two leaves develop. You can use raw sunflower seeds, dried peas, and chia seeds from the store to grow microgreens. (You can also use broccoli, arugula, cilantro, and kale seeds for microgreens. See below for seed-saving techniques to harvest some of these seeds in your home garden! You can also use broccoli, arugula, cilantro, and kale seeds for microgreens.)
To grow your microgreens, find a shallow container with drainage holes at the bottom that is large enough to hold your desired amount of microgreens; this can be a re-used fruit container, seed tray, or any other medium with drainage. Note that if need be, you can create drainage holes in any container made up of plastic or another easily manipulated material by burning holes or poking holes in it with something sharp.
Fill the container with soil. Because they are microgreens, they only need 2 inches of soil. Scatter a generous amount of seeds on top of the soil and cover with a light layer of additional soil. Water every day and the microgreens will be ready to harvest once they are 1½ to 3 inches tall. They are best consumed fresh and raw.
Did you know that microgreens are more nutrient dense than the mature version of the greens? They are great as a topping to any dish of your choosing!
Potatoes will need to sprout, creating “eyes,” in order to grow more potatoes.
Though potatoes left alone long enough tend to sprout on their own, you can encourage sprouting by placing an onion near your potatoes (the ethylene gas naturally emitted by the onion causes them to sprout), or exposing them to light, heat, or humidity.
Once the potato/es have eyes on them, cut the potato into smaller pieces with at least one eye on each piece. Plant the potato segments cut-side down (eyes up) 6-8 inches deep in a container of deep soil or directly into the ground and cover. Each segment should be 8 inches to a foot within the same row, and 2 to 3 feet in between rows. It will take a few weeks before the potato plant begins to grow. The potatoes are ready to harvest once their leaves are dried and dead.
What is so amazing about growing potatoes is that one potato plant can produce several pounds of potatoes! Don’t miss out on the big return you can get from growing more potatoes!
Place a sweet potato into a container that allows its bottom half to be submerged in water such as a pasta sauce jar. If you need support to hold up the sweet potato in your jar, using a few toothpicks poked inside of the potato and balancing on the rim of the container of water will work well. Roots will appear in a few days and sprouts will be seen on top of the potato. Once those sprouts (called “sweet potato slips”) reach about 6 inches in length, twist them off at the base and place them in a container of water. When the roots from these slips reach a couple of centimeters in length, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. into a container of soil or directly into the ground. Each slip should be 8 inches to a foot within the same row, and 2 to 3 feet in between rows. The sweet potatoes are ready to harvest once their vines turn yellow.
There’s sweet potato fries, sweet potato pie, casserole, yams, and more! The possibilities truly seem endless. That is why, just like you can grow an abundance of potatoes from one eye, you should grow an abundance of sweet potatoes from even just one slip and enjoy all that sweet potatoes have to offer!
When growing food indoors on window sills, be sure to replace the water every 1-2 days, and check consistently if there is enough water in the container your plant is in, as the sun tends to evaporate water fast.
This method will only produce leaf growth to be used as greens, and will not grow into a full beet.
Cut off the top 1½ inches from a beetroot (the beet root refers to the large circular bulb of the beet) and place it cut-side down in a dish with enough water to keep the sliced end soaked. It only takes a few days for leaves to emerge, and a few weeks for them to grow to mature sizes.
Beet greens have more nutrients, including vitamins and minerals, than the beet root itself! They are tasty raw or cooked, most people saute them with oil and seasonings!
Make sure there is about 2-3 inches of stem. Place the stems upright in a container of water. When the new roots begin to sprout, transfer the herbs into a pot of soil in your window sill or directly into the ground. Keep in mind that mint has a strong root system that will rapidly spread if not contained to a pot.
Mmm. The smell of fresh basil, mint, and cilantro. Herbs are always an incredible topping to add for extra flavor as well as their varied benefits! You can pluck some basil to add more flavor to pasta, or use your mint to make some soothing tea, or use your cilantro to make a simple salsa recipe! The best part is that you can create a never ending supply of these herbs.
Cut off the base of the celery and place it in a container so that it is submerged in a few inches of water. Keep the bowl in direct sunlight, and after about a week, the leaves will begin to thicken and grow along the base. When this happens, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. the celery in potting soil or directly into the ground.
Celery is a nutrient-rich food that tastes amazing with peanut butter, hummus, or vegan ranch. Why not grow more celery from your scraps instead of needing to buy it later?
You need a couple of centimeters of the base of the fennel to get it to regrow. Place this base in a container of water and leave it in direct sunlight. When the roots grow strong and you notice new green shoots coming up from the center of the base, you can transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. it into a pot of soil in your windowsill or directly into the ground.[4]
Whether tossed into a salad, roasted, or added to your favorite dish, fennel is a versatile ingredient that provides an incredible amount of health benefits for our bodies! Don’t throw out the scraps of your next batch. Start growing it!
Plant one clove of garlic with the roots facing down into a pot of soil or directly into the ground. Once new shoots have established, cut the shoots back and your plant will produce a bulb. You can take part of this new bulb and plant again.[4]
Garlic is not just a tasty flavor addition to any meal, many people also use garlic as a powerful plant medicine! Try to save a clove and grow it next time you can; you never know when you will wish you had some!
Plant a spare piece of ginger root in potting soil, making sure that the healthiest-looking growth buds?A small, protruding growth on a plant that has the potential to develop into a leaf, flower, or new shoot. are facing upwards. It will do well in your windowsill or planted directly into the ground. New shoots and roots will occur in about a week. You can then harvest it and use it again. Be sure to save a rhizome?An underground plant stem that produces shoots above and roots below. if you want to replant it.
Ginger has a strong flavor that people everywhere love. Whether in tea, candied, or added to soups and curry, it’s a versatile ingredient that, like garlic, is often used as a form of plant medicine! With its strong flavor, a little goes a long way, so save some and plant it for later use!
Put the white base with the roots intact in a container of water and place in direct sunlight. You can just cut off what you need and allow it to grow as long as you like, it will continue to grow in water.[4]
Green onions are the easiest food to grow in water! No need to transplant them into soil. They grow so fast that you will surely have an abundance of it with little effort.
Place the bulb of lemongrass (the light-colored, often white, bottom part of the lemongrass) in a container with enough water to cover it and leave it in the sunlight. After about a week, new growth will form; when this happens, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. into a pot of soil or directly into the ground.[4]
Don’t have a lemon? Hopefully you’ve got lemongrass! You will if you use this technique. Similar to garlic and ginger, lemongrass is often used as plant medicine, and is commonly used in tea because of its relaxing properties.
Place the base of the lettuce/bok choy/cabbage (must be at least 1 inch) in a bowl with just a bit of water in the bottom. Keep the bowl in direct sunlight. After 3 or 4 days, roots will begin to appear along with new leaves. When this happens, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. it into a pot of soil in your windowsill or directly into the ground.[4]
Hey! Don’t forget your greens! These plants grow so fast in water and then when transplanted, you can save yourself lots of time and money by utilizing this technique!
Microgreens are the sprouts that are picked after the first two leaves develop. You can use raw sunflower seeds, dried peas, and chia seeds from the store to grow microgreens. (You can also use broccoli, arugula, cilantro, and kale seeds for microgreens. See below for seed-saving techniques to harvest some of these seeds in your home garden! You can also use broccoli, arugula, cilantro, and kale seeds for microgreens.)
To grow your microgreens, find a shallow container with drainage holes at the bottom that is large enough to hold your desired amount of microgreens; this can be a re-used fruit container, seed tray, or any other medium with drainage. Note that if need be, you can create drainage holes in any container made up of plastic or another easily manipulated material by burning holes or poking holes in it with something sharp.
Fill the container with soil. Because they are microgreens, they only need 2 inches of soil. Scatter a generous amount of seeds on top of the soil and cover with a light layer of additional soil. Water every day and the microgreens will be ready to harvest once they are 1½ to 3 inches tall. They are best consumed fresh and raw.
Did you know that microgreens are more nutrient dense than the mature version of the greens? They are great as a topping to any dish of your choosing!
Potatoes will need to sprout, creating “eyes,” in order to grow more potatoes.
Though potatoes left alone long enough tend to sprout on their own, you can encourage sprouting by placing an onion near your potatoes (the ethylene gas naturally emitted by the onion causes them to sprout), or exposing them to light, heat, or humidity.
Once the potato/es have eyes on them, cut the potato into smaller pieces with at least one eye on each piece. Plant the potato segments cut-side down (eyes up) 6-8 inches deep in a container of deep soil or directly into the ground and cover. Each segment should be 8 inches to a foot within the same row, and 2 to 3 feet in between rows. It will take a few weeks before the potato plant begins to grow. The potatoes are ready to harvest once their leaves are dried and dead.
What is so amazing about growing potatoes is that one potato plant can produce several pounds of potatoes! Don’t miss out on the big return you can get from growing more potatoes!
Place a sweet potato into a container that allows its bottom half to be submerged in water such as a pasta sauce jar. If you need support to hold up the sweet potato in your jar, using a few toothpicks poked inside of the potato and balancing on the rim of the container of water will work well. Roots will appear in a few days and sprouts will be seen on top of the potato. Once those sprouts (called “sweet potato slips”) reach about 6 inches in length, twist them off at the base and place them in a container of water. When the roots from these slips reach a couple of centimeters in length, transplant?To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions. into a container of soil or directly into the ground. Each slip should be 8 inches to a foot within the same row, and 2 to 3 feet in between rows. The sweet potatoes are ready to harvest once their vines turn yellow.
There’s sweet potato fries, sweet potato pie, casserole, yams, and more! The possibilities truly seem endless. That is why, just like you can grow an abundance of potatoes from one eye, you should grow an abundance of sweet potatoes from even just one slip and enjoy all that sweet potatoes have to offer!
When growing food indoors on window sills, be sure to replace the water every 1-2 days, and check consistently if there is enough water in the container your plant is in, as the sun tends to evaporate water fast.
Seed Saving 101:
Seed saving is the practice of harvesting reproductive material from vegetables, grains, herbs, and flowers, such as seeds, rhizomes?An underground plant stem that produces shoots above and roots below., and tubers, in order to grow it again. Saving seeds is a form of food sovereignty, expanding the potential for food availability and accessibility, preserving culture, as well as promoting biodiversity. Historically, many indigenous communities had mastered seed saving, developing systems that included optimizing the process itself, as well as optimizing seed storage to save seeds for hundreds of years. Unfortunately, the plights of colonization have challenged these historic practices as well as the future potential of seed saving.
We know that food is power and has the potential to change lives and seeds are just the beginning of it all.
Enslaved Africans braided native African seeds into their hair as a form of seed saving. This was a tool to preserve their food culture on their voyage to the Americas, as no other belongings were able to be brought with them.
It is best to save the seeds of your healthiest, most abundant plants in order to insure future crops will carry the most advantageous traits.[5]
Fruit will embody their own seeds within the fruit itself, while bolting?The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly. refers to the process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly. However, there is a variety of plants that neither bolt, nor are automatically seed bearing, that have other reproductive means, but this resource will only cover standard garden crops that do bolt or already embody seeds.
Some (but not all) examples of fruit crops include berries, gourds, melons, tomatoes, and peppers. Some (but not all) examples of bolting?The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly. crops include broccoli, lettuce, mint, spinach, carrots.
When a crop already embodies its seed, it is simple to remove, thoroughly clean, and dry the seeds to prepare for storage or immediate use. However, there is a more extensive process for bolting?The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly. crops.
Generally, gardeners consider bolting?The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly. a “bad” thing, because instead of producing more food, the crop has most likely pre-maturely begun the bolting?The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly. process upon encountering a stressor and is trying to quickly produce seeds before dying as a survival strategy. However, with the intention of seed saving, this is a good thing.
What causes bolting?
Several factors will cause a crop to bolt prematurely. This includes but is not limited to changes in day-length, excessive heat, and insufficient water or minerals.
You will notice this when the crop is using more energy to grow vertically and its leaves become smaller and more bitter in taste.
A bolting?The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly. crop will naturally bolt if simply just left to grow past its season.
You can artificially bolt crops by giving it the growth hormone gibberellic acid (which is naturally found in the plant) to speed up the process.
How to collect the seeds of bolted plants:
Once these plants have matured to the point of bolting?The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly., their flower’s pappus (the end stage of flowering where the flower is fluffy and white like dandelion puffs) will encapsulate the seeds of the crop. The seeds can be collected by gently removing the seeds from the pappus with your finger, a gentle rub will easily do this. These seeds are oval shaped and range in color from brown to black.
Once mint plants have matured to the point of bolting?The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly., wait for their flowers to turn brown then carefully snip off the dried stems and let them dry out even longer within a paper bag placed in a cool, dark, and dry place. After about two weeks, remove the flowers from the paper bag and use your fingers to gently rub off the seeds from the flowers over a dish. These seeds are tiny, circular, and black.
Once thyme plants have matured to the point of bolting, wait for their flowers to turn brown then carefully snip off the dried stems and gently rub off the seeds. The seeds are insecurely attached to the stem so it is fragile, you can alternatively place a bag under the stalk and rub the seeds off with your fingers without removing the stem. These seeds are circular and vary in color between red, brown, and black, depending on the variety of thyme.
Once oregano plants have matured to the point of bolting, wait for their flowers to turn brown then carefully snip off the dried stems and gently rub the brown flowers to remove their seeds. These seeds are circular and black.
Once basil plants have matured to the point of bolting, wait for their flowers to brown then snip off the flower stems. Open up the brown pockets to remove their seeds. These seeds are tear shaped and black.
Once these plants have matured to the point of bolting?The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change, or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly., their stems will be dried up and ready for seed collecting. Simply remove the stem from the plant and use your fingers to gently rub off the seeds. These seeds are oval shaped and range in color from green to brown.
Plants that are not directly classified as fruits such as legumes and corn have a different seed harvesting process than the above mentioned.
A legume refers to the entire pod that bears its seeds inside. The legume itself is considered a fruit. The seeds inside of the legume, which we often refer to as the legume, are actually called pulses. For example, a pea pod is a legume, but the pea inside of the pod is the pulse.[7]
Common pulses include peas, beans, soybeans, peanuts, lentils, chickpeas.
To harvest these crops, wait until the seed pods are brown and dry on the plant. You will be able to remove the pod and then remove the seeds from the pod.
Corn is a seed derived from the flower/ovary of the plant. Once the ears are completely mature, let it continue to dry out on the stalk for as long as possible. Then, pull back the husk on the ear and let the corn dry even longer in a dry place. The time needed for kernels to completely dry will vary. A good way to test if they are ready for storage is by drying them until they will pop off upon moving your thumb across the ear. You can then break off the seeds from the ear.
Saving Seeds
Keep seeds in a cool, dry, and dark environment to remain viable. Seeds will remain viable for years if stored properly. It is most optimal to have them stored in tightly sealed glass containers. However, paper packets do work as well, they just may not last as long as they could in glass containers where they will be the most protected. Be sure to date and label seeds accordingly.
Glossary
Annual Plants- Plants that complete their life cycle within one growing season.
Bolting- The process of non-fruit plants (such as herbs and vegetables) producing flowering stems that embody their seeds at the end of their natural life cycle or prematurely. This happens naturally as seasons begin to change or pre-maturely from sudden change in weather, nutrient availability, or water availability that does not support the plant’s needs and causes the plant to believe it will die soon and needs to reproduce quickly.
Companion planting- Intentionally planting various types of plants close to each other due to their varied benefits which in turn enhances their growth or protects them from insects or animals eating them.
Compostable- The ability of an item to be composted.
Compost- Decomposed organic material that provides nutrient-rich soil amendment to plants.
Contaminants- Elements or chemicals present at levels that pose human and non-human animals health risk, as well as negatively impacts the soil’s health. Usually caused by industrial activity, agricultural chemicals, and improper disposal of waste.
Cool-season crops- Crops that grow best in cooler seasons and can withstand frost.
Dormant- A plant’s period of inactivity where it conserves its energy for the next growing season as a survival strategy during harsh conditions and climates unsuitable for its growth (such as winter or dry seasons). A seed is also considered dormant until it has the proper growing conditions to sprout.
Germinate- When conditions become favorable for a dormant seed, spore, or bulb to begin to sprout.
Growth bud- A small, protruding growth on a plant that has the potential to develop into a leaf, flower, or new shoot.
Growth inhibitors- Chemicals that promote dormancy in crops with the goal of preventing them from sprouting.
Heirloom plants- The offspring of two identical varieties of a plant to create a plant identical to the parent plant. Heirloom plants are made possible from generations of strategic seed saving.
Hybrid plant- The offspring of two different varieties of plants. Hybrid plants have greater genetic diversity than their plants and entirely new crops can be created through hybridization.
Maturation time- How many days a plant will need to grow before being able to produce vegetables, fruit, or flowers for harvest.
Perennial plants- Plants that live more than two years.
Plant Hardiness Zone Map- A map based on the average annual extreme minimum winter temperature, displayed as 10-degree F zones and 5-degree F half zones. It is the standard tool for helping outdoor growers measure a perennial plant’s ability to survive in their local climate.
Prematurely- The death, growth, or blooming of a plant that happens before it would naturally occur without external factors influencing it.
Rhizome- An underground plant stem that produces shoots above and roots below.
Regenerative agriculture- The concept of utilizing agricultural practices that are restorative to the soil and climate. This practice has become popularized due to the climate crisis and a general decrease in soil health and the ability of plants to sequester greenhouse gas emissions and rebuild soil health.
Seedling- A young plant.
Seed saving- The practice of harvesting reproductive material from vegetables, grains, herbs, and flowers, such as seeds, rhizomes, and tubers, in order to grow it again.
Sow- To put seeds in or on the ground so that they will grow into plants.
Starters- Plants that are several weeks old and have been nurtured through the earliest stages of growth
Succession planting- Planting the same crop multiple times over periods of time such as days or weeks in order to harvest it continously throughout its growing season.
Transplant- To relocate a seedling to a new location in order to optimize its growing needs and conditions.
Warm-season crops- Crops that grow best in warmer seasons and generally cannot withstand frost.
Additional resources for vegetable gardening at home:
Websites:
- http://veganorganic.net/information-for-growers/factsheets/
- http://www.goveganic.net/
- Google (or any search engine): a quick search will give you an abundance of information regarding how to grow just about any vegetable, fruit or plant known to humankind.
Books:
- Veganic Gardening: The Alternative System for Healthier Crops by Kenneth Dalziel O’Brien
- Growing Green: Organic Techniques for a Sustainable Future by Jenny Hall and Iain Tolhurst
Happy Growing!
Please note, although the Food Empowerment Project is referring to the work of other organizations, we do not necessarily endorse the entire content of their websites or missions.
References:
[1] 2023 USDA plant hardiness zone map. 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map | USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. (n.d.). https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/#:~:text=The%20USDA%20Plant%20Hardiness%20Zone,5%2Ddegree%20F%20half%20zones.
[2] Beginner’s Guide to Vegetable Gardening. Community Sports News. (2021, May 13). https://community-sports-news.com/beginners-guide-to-vegetable-gardening/
[3] How to identify and correct plant nutrient deficiencies. Earth Juice. (n.d.). https://www.earthjuice.com/support-materials/resources/plant-nutrient-deficiencies
[4] How to save seeds: Seed saving for Beginners – The House & Homestead. The House & Homestead – Helping you create, grow and live a good life… From scratch! (2020, December 1). https://thehouseandhomestead.com/how-to-save-seeds/
[5] Specific seed saving instructions for common vegetables. (n.d.). https://www.mentorpl.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/Seed-Library-Seed-saving-instructions.pdf
[6] Holley, K. (2020, May 25). 25 fruits and vegetables you can re-plant and grow yourself. Hungry Foodie. https://hungryfoodie.com/25-fruits-and-vegetables-you-can-re-plant-and-grow-yourself/
[7] Legumes and pulses. The Nutrition Source. (2022, March 2). https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/legumes-pulses/